Discovering Korea's Spiritual Roots

What is it about a place that makes one feel deeply connected to something greater? During my journey of discovering Korea (influenced in part by cues from K-dramas), I’ve felt an atmosphere of spirituality that transcends any single religion. Although I’m not a religious person, each visit envelops me in a quiet, spiritual energy that's hard to define.

On my second visit to Korea, I decided to push myself out of my comfort zone. Instead of sticking to solo adventures, I signed up for two group tours and a makgeolli (막걸리, traditional rice wine) workshop to meet and interact with others, as well as to learn more—there’s only so much you can explore on your own. This particular tour, focused on Korean temples and shrines at Mt. Gyeryong-san (계룡산), offered an eye-opening experience into Korea’s spiritual landscape, which I realized I knew very little about.

Our guide, David Mason, a passionate expert with over 40 years of experience in Korea’s spiritual traditions, shared his deep knowledge of the country’s sacred mountains. He led us through Buddhist temples and shamanistic sites on Mt. Gyeryong-san (계룡산), explaining how Korean Buddhism is distinct from other forms because it has absorbed elements of Korean shamanism, or Mugyo (무교), an ancient belief system centered on communication with spirits.

In Korea, these traditions are closely intertwined, with nature viewed as sacred. The energy of mountains and landscapes plays a crucial role in spiritual practices, and Gyeryong-san is considered one of the most spiritually significant mountains in the country.

As the day unfolded, I felt increasingly overwhelmed. The deeper we delved into Korea’s spiritual practices, the more questions I had. We visited shrines, temples, and sacred sites, and I was flooded with unfamiliar traditions. I didn’t understand the significance of the mountain or how Buddhism, shamanism, and Korea's spiritual history intertwined.

Who were the spirits? Why were shamanistic rituals happening at Buddhist temples? By the end of the tour, I felt like I had barely scratched the surface. My real learning began only after the tour, when I did further research to piece together what I had experienced.

I came to realize that Korea’s religious landscape is incredibly rich and complex. Buddhism, shamanism, Confucianism, and even Christianity coexist in fascinating ways. Shamanism, in particular, serves as Korea’s ancient spiritual root, steeped in animism (the belief that natural elements, like mountains and rivers, have spirits) and ancestor worship. Shamanism predates Buddhism, which arrived in Korea from China, in the 4th century.

Buddhism played a central role in Korean history, particularly during the Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392), when it was the state religion. Even today, many of Korea’s most famous temples are active Buddhist sites, drawing worshippers and tourists alike.

Temples like Gapsa (계룡갑사), one of Korea’s oldest, and Sinwonsa (신원사), known for its hall dedicated to the mountain spirit, serve as both spiritual centers and historical monuments. They showcase the deep intertwining of Buddhism with Korea’s cultural and spiritual life. Over the centuries, shamanism has influenced Buddhist practices in Korea, blending the two in ways that are unique to the country.

A key figure in shamanism is the mudang (무당), or shaman, who acts as a bridge between the physical world and the spiritual realm. Mudangs perform rituals to connect with spirits, seeking their help for health, luck, and protection. One of the most important rituals in shamanism is the gut (굿), a ceremony involving drumming, chanting, and dancing to invite spirits to provide blessings. It was fascinating to learn how such ancient practices remain an active part of Korea’s spiritual life.

Shamanism, has however, faced many challenges throughout Korean history. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897), when Confucianism became the dominant state ideology, shamanism was marginalized and seen as superstitious. This suppression continued under Japanese colonial rule (1910–1945), when Korea’s cultural identity was heavily suppressed, and traditional practices like shamanism were discouraged in favor of Japanese Shinto rituals.

In more modern times, during the authoritarian rule of Park Chung-hee (박정희) in the 1960s and 70s, efforts to industrialize and modernize Korea led to the further discouragement of traditional customs. Yet, despite these efforts to erase it, shamanism endured. Since the 1980s, there has even been a revival, as Koreans reconnect with their ancestral roots amidst the rapid modernization of the country.

Gyeryong-san (계룡산), where our tour took place, plays a central role in Korea's spiritual revival. As one of the nation’s eight most important spiritual mountains, it is renowned for the worship of Sanshin (산-신), honored as the guardian of mountains and nature, often depicted as an elderly man with a tiger, symbolizing strength and protection. Regular Gut (굿) ceremonies, where shamanistic rituals call upon spirits for blessings and healing, attract both locals and visitors seeking a deeper spiritual connection.

Showcasing Korea's rich diversity, Gyeryong-san features stunning landscapes, diverse flora and fauna, and hiking trails for all skill levels. This mountain captivates nature lovers and embodies the harmonious coexistence of ancient spiritual traditions and modern life, as it is also home to a major South Korean military base since the early 1970s.

One of the most vivid moments of our tour was witnessing a gut (굿) ceremony in progress. The rhythmic drumming and chanting were unfamiliar to me, and I didn’t fully understand what I was witnessing. But I learned that this ritual was meant to invoke the mountain spirits, calling on their protection and blessings.

After the ceremony, we left a small offering, and a lovely lady there invited us to have tea. She then impulsively began singing Arirang (아리랑), a traditional Korean folk song. It was an incredibly moving moment. Arirang is often considered Korea’s unofficial anthem, and it carries the weight of the nation’s history—its hardships and its resilience.

For me, spirituality in Korea is a vast, evolving concept that invites deeper inquiry and personal connection. It isn't confined to rigid categories; instead, it intertwines deeply with the natural world. Each time I visit, I feel more connected to nature and increasingly aware of a hidden spirituality that permeates the land.

Whether through Buddhist practices, shamanistic rituals, or simply the beauty of nature, spirituality in Korea is vibrant and ever-evolving.